We woke up ready to experience Clifden, a village of about 2,000 people where our hotel, the Ardagh, was located. We grabbed breakfast in the Ardagh before we left. I was overcome by Ireland’s morning light. Looking out over Clifden Bay, I began to understand the beauty of Ireland’s West Coast more deeply. I ate avocado toast and scrambled eggs, and Greg ate a traditional Irish breakfast of bangers, white and black pudding (another type of sausage), ham, bacon, and scrambled eggs. (I knew Greg liked the white pudding because he immediately wanted more.)

The Sky Road

Before we made our way into town, we drove The Sky Road (the feature image for this post). The narrow, two lane road twisted and turned. Car speeds varied greatly, and the rhythm with which local drivers managed the road felt different from the parade of seeming tourists navigating the well known road. Every deep breath and white knuckle was worth it. After about 15 minutes of back and forth, we reached the panoramic view at the top. The cold breeze punctuated the stark white caps and rocky terrain. We are truly in Ireland and witnessing its amazing West Coast. Appreciating the natural beauty continued as we descended the mountain.

Clifden

Clifden’s character spoke through the olds walls and just-opening doors. We started in Guys Bar because they were the first to open for lunch. We then proceeded to Tom King’s where we were treated to a “real Irish session.” Then came Lowry’s, followed by the biggest and most delicious bowl of the mussels I have ever had at Mannion’s. I am not sure if I will ever eat mussels again.

Dinner at the Ardagh

We returned to the Ardagh and hung out in the cozy bar talking with Dan, the bartender, before dinner. (We had been told by several people in Clifden to eat dinner there.) Dinner time arrived and we situated ourselves in front of the window with a breathtaking view of Clifden Bay. We shared a bottle of Sancerre, locally grown Giga oysters, scallop, prawn & salmon ceviche, Cleggan crab meat tian, signature seafood chowder, and honeycomb panna cotta & semifreddo duo.